By: Rebecca

For the last 20 years, the city of Haifa has hosted a celebration called the Hag Shel Hagim or "Holiday of Holidays." Although this year, the Christian (Christmas), Jewish (Chanukah), and Muslim (Ramadan) holidays were nowhere near each other, the month-long event celebrates all three and has something for everyone. There are arts and crafts for kids, free outdoor concerts, classical music at various churches, street fairs, etc. 

This past Saturday, we took a walk down to the Arab Christian neighborhood (Wadi Nisnas) to take in the experience. We had been told it would be crowded, but we were completely unprepared for how many people there were. It was fantastic to see so many folks out and about enjoying the beautiful weather. 

People filling the streets in Wadi Nisnas

Although Chanukah is long over, there were still some sufganiyot for sale along with all kinds of other treats. Overall, maybe a little healthier than the food you would normally get a street fair in the US. We were tempted by roasted nuts, fresh juice, and falafel. There were some less healthier choices as well: candied apples, knafa, and of course, baklavah. 

Knafa for sale

Fresh squeezed juice anyone?

I am missing Christmas a little bit, but not as much as I thought I might. I got plenty of lights and decorations in Italy and there are lots of apartments with trees in the window here as well. We got a small tree to decorate to go with the lights we have put up in the apartment. Tonight's baking adventure was gingerbread cookies and tomorrow, homemade eggnog. 

Gingerbread cookies all iced and ready to eat!

More pictures here.

By: Jason and Rebecca

Italy has something for everyone, plain and simple. Take your pick:  How about taking in the colossal and ancient sites of Rome like the Colosseum, the Forum, Capitoline Hill or the Vatican?  Or spending some time among the countless museums of Italian Renaissance art or Etruscan culture (people that pre-dated the Roman Empire and for whom Tuscany is named).  

The Colosseum at sunset

Looking back toward the Roman Forum from the Colosseum

Christmas tree lighting in St. Peter's Square

Not your thing?  Okay, what about eating your way through Italy starting with fresh pasta, arancini, pizza (of course) and wine followed by canoli dipped in chocolate and pistachios with a side of delicious gelato (you choose, there’s hundreds of flavors)?  

All this making you tired?  No problem.  Just gussy up to one of the thousands of coffee bars where you can slam a euro or two on the counter and be served the best espresso, macchiato, cappuccino, etc. you’ve ever had.  Be quick to down it, because you still have lots of other sites, sounds, and delicious smells awaiting you.

For a more laid back and relaxing time, grab a car (only a 5-speed will do) and drive north a couple hours where you will be transported into another world that flows with glowing sunshine, robust vineyards, and medieval-fortress cities perched atop of hills: the Tuscan countryside. On the way, stop at a gas station for famous buffalo mozzarella and more canoli.

Siena, Italy

Forgotten grapes

All that driving making you hungry again? Check in to the B&B (in a restored 18th century farmhouse), and take a bus into Siena for a fabulous dinner at a restaurant tucked into an Estruscan tomb. Take in the city at night - complete with Christmas lights.

Dinner in an Estruscan tomb

The next morning, tour Siena by daylight, do some shopping and drink more espresso! You'll need it for the drive through Tuscany. Visit vineyards, wine cellars, cheese shops, and more. Watch the sun set over the hills. End up in Orvieto and take in the Christmas parade and lights. Have dinner at a local bar and then head back to Rome. 

Montepulciano, Italy by moonlight

Orvieto, Italy - Christmas time!

That's just a snapshot of how we spent our week. We had a great time and hope reading this post puts you in the holiday spirit. Made some great friends (thanks to Marco and Isabelle for sharing their home with us!). Italy has so much to offer and we barely scratched the surface. We'd love to go back again someday soon!

Lots more pictures of our trip in the photo album!

By: Jason

We are up to Chanukah in the cycle of holidays here in Israel. Since we were in Israel for Purim last year, the only holiday we haven't experienced was Rosh Hashana (since we were in the US). Chanukah is a relatively minor holiday in comparison to the others, but nonetheless, like all holidays, there are the veritable traditions that include foods, symbols, songs, and activities.  Chanukah (and its importance) reflects a time of year when the weather changes and the nights begin earlier.  Chanukah not only represents a historical victory over the Greeks, but the candles and lights represent an unending determination and endurance of people and their will to survive and persevere. 

Although in the US, it is somewhat traditional to give gifts (probably an artifact of Christmas-crossover), it doesn't seem to be a tradition here. Instead its about the food and gathering with friends and family.

Our new chanukiah on the 8th night

Top-down view - with our collection of sea glass and shells

All around Israel there were Chanukiah (Chanukah menorahs) at virtually every intersection, in storefronts, at train stations, office buildings, schools, and of course in homes.  The ubiquitous potato latkes that many of us are accustomed to (with applesauce and sour cream, of course!), took a back seat to a fried and oily delicacy called sufganiot in Hebrew (jelly donuts to the rest of us).  Because the tradition is to eat a variety of oily foods (symbolic of the temple oil and its miracle of burning 8 nights), Israelis have embraced the donut as the poster child for Chanukah. You can find them at virtually every street corner, bakery, supermarket, and convenience store.  We tried our fair share (more than I could have imagined!), but the one that sticks out was a massive donut generously covered with confectionery sugar that we found at a bakery in Tel Aviv. 

Bat-sheva's homemade sufganiyot

This holiday also brings together all types of people and is a truly worthy of the phrase, “The Festival of Lights”. For me, the inclusiveness of Chanukah was solidified the other day when I was at work, eating my lunch at my desk and Ehud barged in, “We are lighting the candles and you should join us.”  I leapt up and joined about a dozen others from the department in the prayers and singing of Ma Atzor (Rock of Ages).  It was a really a lot of fun.

By: Rebecca and Jason

Thanksgiving was very different for us this year. Usually we run around to two dinners on Thursday trying to spend time with all the family in a short visit. This year we were 6,000 miles away, but still managed to fit in two Thanksgiving dinners and a Chanukah party! 

Thursday evening we headed to Tel Aviv for a Thanksgiving dinner sponsored by Fulbright at a very nice hotel. We weren't sure what to expect, but the food was quite good. More Mediterranean than traditional New England, but it was nice. My one major complaint was that there were no mashed potatoes! Almost all of the new Fulbright cohort was there as well as all but one of last year's crowd. We had a great time and it was nice to get another chance to talk to the new folks. 

The Chanukiah and Thanksgiving buffet

While waiting for our train back to Haifa, we were able to Skype into the Goldstein-Conner Thanksgiving/Chanukah/birthday party. Not the same as being there, but we did get to see just about everyone however, we are still trying to figure out who was actually coherent and remembered speaking to us (it seemed like quite the party!).  We got home after 1:00am - certainly a memorable day.

Friday afternoon we joined many other Anglos in Haifa (English speakers group in Haifa) for a potluck Thanksgiving/Chanukah party. The party was held at the Japanese Art Museum in Haifa (a place we've been meaning to go for months). The museum was closed to the public, but we were allowed access to the exhibits for the first couple hours so we wandered around until it was time for dinner. The food was great! Two big turkeys and lots of side dishes. The only thing missing was... Mashed potatoes! Again! After dinner, we lit the Chanukiah and the event organizer passed out Chanukah presents for trivia questions.

Colliding cultures
Japanese museum, Thanksgiving, and Chanukah

After dinner Chanukah gifts

From there, we headed straight to Afula for a Shabbat Chanukah dinner at with Ehud and Bat-Sheva's families. Even though we were convinced we couldn't eat any more, we managed to stuff the corners with homemade latkes, applesauce, kugel, soup, salad, sufganiyot, and fruit.

Lighting the Chanukiah with Bat-sheva and Ehud

Definitely a departure from our usual Thanksgiving festivities, but certainly a fun and very memorable one! We are thankful for all our friends and family on both sides of the Atlantic. 

We didn't need much to eat on Saturday after all the celebrating, but we did agree on what to have for dinner... Mashed potatoes! 

By: Rebecca

Several months ago, I wrote a post about some of the major differences between life in Israel and the US. Though I have gotten used to many of them, some of them are still hard to understand, and there are some new ones we have discovered. 

• Seasonal produce. Still awesome, but sometimes frustrating. I missed lime season completely. How am I supposed to make Mexican food...or a decent gin and tonic?
• There are large containers of yogurt - made from goat or sheep milk. Cow milk yogurt, as far as I can tell, only comes in single-serve containers.
• It gets dustier. April brought an unusually high number of dust storms. They are as awful as they sound. Picture thick fog, but instead of water, it's made out of very fine dust. The storms are accompanied by a hot wind that blows the sand everywhere. There is really nothing to do except close all the windows and stay inside.
• People are not very good with the concept of lines, or waiting in them. Thankfully, at places like the post office, there is a number system (similar to the deli counter at an American grocery store). In a moment of genius, someone also decided that you should be able to enter your phone number and get a text message when it's your turn.
• No doesn't mean no. At least not usually. If you play the game, there is usually a way to get around the rules (a kombina). 
• Drivers are crazy!! People drive like they are in a race to be the first car to anywhere. On the other hand, most Israeli's make parallel parking look effortless. They can park a car in a space I wouldn't try to park a bicycle. 
• Don't order drip coffee. Since most people drink instant or Turkish, the drip coffee is terrible. The cappuccino, on the other hand, is delicious and usually the same price. Even the bus station kiosk makes a decent cappuccino. 

Cappuccino from Aroma - the Israeli equivalent of Starbucks

• Everyone wants exact change. Even when there's a drawer full of money in front of them (like at the grocery store), you are still expected to hand over whatever amount means they have the least counting to do. If something costs 51.20 you should either give exactly that, or 101.20 so they can give you a 50 as change. 
• You can find a good hamburger. It took some time, but with the help of good friends, we finally found a good burger place in Haifa.
• People are very creative and resourceful. On our recent trip to Tel Aviv, we saw a huge billboard tied down with zip-ties. 
• I still don't understand the mops!